From the brains behind CENSU, chef Shun Sato presents GOLDEN GIP, a new space that focuses on Korean cuisine instead of the chef’s Japanese roots. Shun comes to Central with Korean chef Nigel Kim to launch this restaurant embracing Hong Kong’s endless Korean food-mania trend.
GOLDEN GIP has taken over a French restaurant, where the walls and existing decorations were gutted to develop the space into the style of an indoor dai pai dong, fit with neon-red overheard lighting and dark tones throughout.
Counter seating, high table, or low table, the eatery can cater to any style. Just like its older sister’s menu in Sheung Wan, the menu is split into “raw,” “savoury,” “wok,” “fried,” “mains,” “grains,” and “dessert” sections. As evident in their messaging, they cook Asian dishes with dashes of Korean influences.
In the first menu section, the salmon (HKD158) sashimi, wrapped up with pineapple cheese and cucumber and bathed in a five-spice soy, is a must-order. It is an inventive dish that plays with texture; the smoothness of the fish comes first onto the palate followed by the frothy, creamy cheese.
For savoury items, the drool chicken (HKD148) is a pleasant dish that evinces a Korean influence with the tender poached chicken and touches of chilli oil. Just like the salmon and many of the other fish starter dishes, the protein swims in a bed of Chinese wine sauce, helping to draw out the sour flavours of the chicken.
Whilst the chicken is solid and the flavour combination of the salmon dish is unique, the starters lack a necessary textural crunch, such as a chilli crisp or garlic, to bring balance beyond soft textures. The Koreanness is there, but it would be nice if it were more pronounced.
The not your normal burrata (HKD138) was our final starter dish before we ventured onto the meaty mains. I was impressed with this dish that fuses the sweetness and creaminess of the cheese with the snappy, tart taste of sesame paste and chilli oil. It is a uniquely Korean-style dish that resonates with lovers of the cuisine in Hong Kong.
As a fan of tartare, I was thoroughly impressed by GOLDEN GIP’s beef tartare (HKD168), enveloped with a Korean-style sour sauce and egg yolk. The beef is cured, offering a mature flavour that hangs onto the palate with its hard-hitting beefy flavour.
Following on, the small-portioned Wagyu steak (HKD368) is a suitable main dish for ordering after the filling raw, wok, and fried dishes. Featuring eight Wagyu slices, grilled medium rare to perfection, the dish includes dollops of mashed potato and apple-leek kimchi to cut the fat.
Our recommendation is to come to GOLDEN GIP starving and thirsty and order a couple of starters and mains for a filling meal.
Our verdict of GOLDEN GIP
All but four items on the busy menu are below HKD200, a testament to the affordable quality cooking and service at Golden Gip. Whilst I wish the Korean influence was more pronounced, so as not to lose the real essence of the restaurant, it is prevalent throughout the menu and helps to shape the aim of the chef team. Go for a boozy meal with a large group or an intimate gathering for two for the best results.
GOLDEN GIP, 1/F, Hong Kong House, 17–19 Wellington Street, Central, 5471 7858, book here
| Order this: salmon, drool chicken, beef tartare, Wagyu steak Menu: GOLDEN GIP à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD600–800 | Atmosphere: convivial, high-key, and entertaining Perfect for: date nights or glam foodie adventures |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
