When it opened in 2024, Ruên specialised in both Thai and Vietnamese dishes, though now amiable founder Baljoet seems to have shifted to a focus on Thai cuisine, fitting given the recent explosion of Thai restaurants in Hong Kong. However, staple Vietnamese plates like rice-paper rolls and pho are also available on the extensive menu.
Ruên’s kitchen is run by two Thai chefs. Chef Bill was born and raised in Bangkok and gained his early culinary experience helping his mum to run a street-food stall. He has over 30 years of experience in Hong Kong working for well-known Thai restaurant brands including Greyhound Café and Mango Tree.
Joining Bill in the kitchen is the equally capable chef Aom, who has called Hong Kong home for nearly two decades and was formerly the head chef of Nara Thai Cuisine.
The dishes at Ruên are hearty in portion and ideal for sharing, making for wallet-friendly dining. We also appreciate the house-made condiments on offer, which lend a layer of authenticity.
We straddled the two Southeast Asian nations with our starter orders as a way to gauge the prowess of the chefs. First to arrive was the tod man khao pod (HKD128). Though we wished the flavours of the red curry paste and kaffir lime in this traditional Thai recipe were more prominent, these deep-fried fritters plump with the natural sweetness of corn and crabmeat are nevertheless surefire comfort-food winners. The homemade neon-red sweet chilli sauce on the side offers a pleasant complementary tang.
From the grill section of the menu came the nhue yang takrai (HKD138), a Vietnamese DIY affair of chargrilled beef sirloin, sliced thinly and wrapped around sticks of lemongrass, thin rice noodles, lettuce leaves and herbs for wrapping, and a duo of spicy sauces (one chilli-based and one peanutty). The beef, infused with the delicate flavour of lemongrass, is delicious but extremely rich, so the greens are definitely needed for balance.
The star of our mains was the ped yang sod ma khawn (HKD168), a Thai riff on roast duck that delivers a juicy, savoury, slightly gamy bird accompanied by a sweet-and-sour tamarind sauce (our sauce was ice-cold, but we’re not sure if that was the point). The skin was not as crispy as we had hoped, but the taste of the duck, heady with lemongrass and five-spice, made up for that shortcoming.
The gaeng kua meuk yat mu (HKD148) is new to Ruên’s menu, a dish inspired by Bangkok hawker fare. It sounds sensational on paper – baby squid stuffed with spiced minced pork in a red curry sauce – but we found the flavour of the curry overwhelmingly sweet and one-note, lacking the hallmark fiery vibrancy of the Thai curries we adore.
For dessert, the khao niao mamuang (HKD98), featuring a trio of sticky rice balls made with taro, butterfly pea, and coconut milk, fresh mango, and homemade coconut syrup, will satisfy mango sticky rice fans. However, our dessert pick goes to the humble coconut ice cream (HKD68), also homemade, to end the meal on a sugary high.
Our verdict of Ruên
On our Sunday lunchtime visit, Ruên was bustling with groups, couples, and families enjoying the eatery’s lively ambience, friendly service, and reasonably priced Thai and Vietnamese dishes. Ruên might not be the most authentic restaurant in town, but it’s a well-liked spot by locals and tourists for good reason. The eatery sits in that delicate range between cheap and cheerful and off-the-charts expensive that seems so difficult to achieve in Hong Kong.
Ruên, Shop G38–G39 & G45–G48, G/F, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2205 6018, WhatsApp 4414 8006, book here
| Order this: larb pla, nhue yang takrai, ped yang sod ma khawn, pla paea sa, coconut ice cream Menu: Ruên à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD600–800 | Atmosphere: inviting open-fronted bistro design with bright red wooden accents, a hanging garden ceiling, and tables spilling out onto the pavement Perfect for: Thai and Vietnamese food aficionados who crave a bit of both of these Southeast Asian cuisines |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
