Think of Feather & Bone and the posh supermarket chain comes to mind. However, in recent years, the restaurant arm of the gourmet butcher and grocer has fostered great success, becoming a notable lunch and dinner spot for elevated pub grub.
Feather & Bone’s executive chef James Oakley has designed the restaurant chain’s menus with the meat-loving carb-eater in mind. In the mess of PR-pushed Hong Kong chefs, the ponytailed, tattooed Brit is mature and raw, much like his hearty food.
The Wan Chai location of Feather & Bone is a chic venue clad on two sides with open windows and packed tight with oak tables and plush seating. We sank into a corner table, resting on cotton-packed cushions. It was warranted after a long day of writing!
As soon as we sat down, our pre-ordered grazing board (HKD298) arrived, with our forks ready to dig in. The long plank features goodies such as dry-aged duck, Comté cheese slices, tzatziki, blue cheese, green grapes, walnuts, avocado dip, and an assortment of dried breads.
The duck slices are a notable addition to the board, holding a lightly pickled and gamy flavour as a result of the dry-ageing process, boosting the fermented and earthy tones. The cheese selection is varied, from fruity and soft to pungent.
When enjoying tartare dishes, tableside service is always favoured for mixing a steak tartare (HKD168) plate. However, at Feather & Bone, the server presents the shimmering diced steak with tableside dollops of chives, dried and fresh capers, and onions. We mixed it ourselves, which will either make the experience more enjoyable and interactive or will leave the diner wishing the service was better. I am in the former camp.
The tartare is a great starter that favours my needs for the steak dish: tangy with the addition of mustard, capers, Worcestershire sauce, and the natural scent of the filet mignon. It is a great sharing dish.
Mains began with lamb ragù casarecce (HKD228), a crowd-pleaser that blends minced lamb, sage, olive oil, onion, saffron, and salt and pepper. The pasta dish is very shareable with the short, curly pasta shapes. I appreciated the fruity side of the lamb ragù, which is accentuated with the herby red sauce.
The Australian Wagyu sirloin (HKD288) and complementing potato au gratin (HKD68) came our way for part deux of our meal, sans any feathers and bones. Whilst retaining a medium-rare body with notes of iron, marrow, and peach, the exterior shell of the sirloin was sizzled to perfection, holding a roasted sweetness and saltiness that flavoured the beefy insides.
Dreams are made on potato dishes worldwide, and Feather & Bone’s potato au gratin is deserving of accolades and religious praise. By no means exaggerating the strength of the side dish, the lightly creamed and soft-to-the-touch potatoes with their sweet, cheesy topping match the salty cut of sirloin steak.
Just as we were ready to loosen our belts and wave our white flag, the waitress placed the finale on the table, a bread and butter pudding (HKD88) to savour. Decorated with a vanilla ice-cream bulb atop malt crumble, the pudding is light with wispy vanilla and caramel flavours, not overpowering. The bouncy texture of the dessert succeeds in making the ending and overall meal one to remember.
Our verdict of Feather & Bone
A meal at Feather & Bone is a dependable neighbourhood experience serving up hearty British, Australian, and American fare at a great price point. Under chef James’ authority, each dish at a Feather & Bone restaurant is crafted with a savouriness in mind, from the dry-aged steak cuts and cheese-topped accoutrements to the pastas and starters with their lingering umami flavours.
|Order this: steak tartare, French onion soup, Australian Wagyu sirloin, potato au gratin, beef pie, classic prawn cocktail
Menu: Feather & Bone menus
Price for two: HKD400–600
|Atmosphere: jovial and light, the chain’s Wan Chai location suits an affordable fine-casual dining set
Perfect for: a casual weekday rendezvous or group meal with meat and carb lovers
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.