It is a rarity to close a restaurant in Hong Kong when the business is stable and the regular crowd strong. When rumours floated and were later confirmed that Shady Acres – the catalyst to making Peel Street a thing in 2019 – would be shutting shop, questions were asked about the bar’s sudden closure.
The answers came quickly with the announcement of the opening of wine bar Bourke’s in its place, a more food-focused concept evolving beyond the Shady Acres model. The original opening team of Shady Acres want to successfully close one chapter and bring Hong Kong a new venue that complements today’s dining landscape – same group, different restaurant.
More seats have been added to the space, elevated with oaky tones and softer lighting and choreographed with more intimate service. The menu borrows inspiration from Australia’s wine bars, the origin of manager Brett Gross’ hospitality career.
As far as the signature whipped cod roe (HKD90) is concerned, my first bite at Bourke’s started strong. This fluffy umami bomb of a dip is complemented by ikura and a light chilli oil dressing that further boost its salty tones. Because the team don’t want to take themselves too seriously, you scoop the dip with the accompanying Ruffles crinkle-cut crisps.
Another small bite landing on the table was the liver parfait toast (HKD90) topped with blueberry jam. This is one of the many dishes that hits home Bourke’s philosophy of small bites that pack a punch. The moreish and iron-strong flavour of the liver is a wonderful contrast to the sweetness of the blueberry.
One of my favourite dishes at Bourke’s was the salt and vinegar chicken wings (HKD85), which sees six wings brined with a vinegar marinade that tickles the tongue. Even if you’re planning to just get drinks here, this is the one dish to order on the side for snacking – these wings are that addictive.
For the last dish, I sunk my teeth into the chicken katsu sando (HKD120), yet another recipe that possesses robust flavours beyond its compact shape. A lightly battered chicken cutlet meets Kewpie mayo, papaya pickle, and blackened crispy onion for an intoxicating meeting of sour, savoury, and sweet. Each bite beckons you for more and more and more. This sando is also available in pork form.
Dinner ended with Bourke’s only dessert, bananas, brandy, cream (HKD45). It offers a sweet assault of coconut, honey, banana, and frothy cream that can be enjoyed on the most indulgent of days.
Our verdict of Bourke’s
The evolution from Shady Acres to Bourke’s has seen major upgrades to the food menu, rendering the spot a destination for not only great vibes and wine but high-quality food too. Whilst constructed simply, using minimal ingredients, each dish showcases strong flavours. We will be back.
Bourke’s, G/F, 46 Peel Street, Soho, Central, book here
| Order this: whipped cod roe, liver parfait toast, salt and vinegar chicken wings, chicken/pork katsu sando Menu: Bourke’s à-la-carte menu Price for two: HKD400–500 | Atmosphere: convivial and communal, continuing the great spirit of the former Shady Acres space Perfect for: fixing that craving for bar-style food à la small bites |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
